If we consider the return current through the mass as normal, faults in the electrical system will be caused by the malfunctioning of its elements or insufficient current supply. Wires that are torn or cracked in the middle open the circuit. This can be verified using a wire with jaw clamps or appropriate connectors at the ends. Another way is a 12 V test light. which can be used to check the voltage in different parts of the wiring, and in this way our impulse.
Eats and some part of the bare wiring touches the body or other metal part, the current will choose the path to the battery with (low resistance, this is the so-called short circuit, which will cause the fuse to burn out, otherwise it can cause the insulation to burn out or even a fire. Therefore, if the fuse often blows. you need to find a circuit in the circuit.
Spare parts and tool kit
If you have the list of tools provided in the section "Tools and equipment to make the job easier", peace of mind on the roads is provided to you. With this tool you will cope with any work on the road. In addition, in case of an accident, the driver should have several additional tools with him. The list of tools below will help you save time and money and free you from workshop visits:
- Spark plugs, clean and properly gapped Long high voltage wire with spark plug socket to reach spark plugs that are away from the igniter
- Finger distribution, junctions breaker capacitor (where it may be needed)
- Alternator V-belt 5.
- fuel hose (about 0.6 m)
- Spare fuses
- light bulb kit
- Insulating tape for electrical wires, as well as tape for repairing damaged water pipes
- Stock of soft wire
- Spare electrical wiring, bendable, insulated Flashlight or portable lamp (can serve as a control)
- towing channel
- Liter of engine oil
- Clamps for rubber pipes - different diameters
- Spare fuel must be carried in a dedicated canister to minimize leakage and damage in the event of a collision
- A first aid kit and an emergency sign must be in the car
When traveling abroad, it is worth having additional spare parts. If you can't even install them yourself, you'll save time on the purchase.
Pay attention to the parts listed below:
- Clutch and throttle cables
- Head gasket
- Generator brushes
- Chamber spool
- Fuel pump
- Brake cylinder
Engine won't start
The engine does not rotate when the starter is turned on
- Low battery (charge, use extra battery)
- Battery clamps loose or corroded
- Insufficient connection of the battery to the body
- The wire to the engine ground is unclenched or torn
- Starter or machine wiring is unclenched or torn
- Automatic transmission selector in the wrong position
- Damaged ignition/starter switch
- Serious mechanical damage to the engine
- Internal breakdown of the starter or machine
Starter turns engine slowly
- Partially discharged battery (charge, use extra battery)
- Battery clamps loose or rusty Insufficient battery ground connection
- Loose wiring to engine ground
- Loose starter wiring
- Internal starter failure
The starter turns without turning the engine
- Damaged starter clutch
- Broken or worn flywheel teeth
- Loose starter mounting bolts
The engine has normal speed, but there is no ignition
- Damp or dirty high voltage wires and distributor caps
- Dirty or incorrectly installed distributor contacts
- No fuel in the tank
- Starter equipment not disengaged when engine is hot
- Starter equipment not disengaged when engine is cold
- Dirty spark plugs or incorrectly set gap (remove, clean and install clearance)
- Breakdown in the ignition system
- Breakdown in the power supply system, insufficient compression pressure
- Serious mechanical damage (e.g. camshaft drives)
Engine starts but does not run
- Starter hardware not included (cold engine)
- Air purge in carburetor or fuel intake manifold
- Very little fuel
- Damaged adjusting rheostat or other ignition malfunction
Engine stalls and won't start
- Engine Stops Abruptly - Ignition Malfunction
- Loose or disconnected low voltage wires
- Wet high voltage wires or distributor head (in wet weather)
- Damaged coil or capacitor (check spark)
- Other ignition malfunction
The engine starts to run intermittently and stalls - a malfunction in the fuel system
- Empty fuel tank
- Damaged fuel pump and dirty filter
- Fuel tank filler air vent dirty (after unscrewing the plug, you can hear the suction of air into the tank)
- Dirty carburetor needle valve
- Dirty carburetor jets (contaminated fuel)
- Other fuel system malfunction
- Engine stalls - other causes
Engine overheating
- Serious mechanical damage (e.g. camshaft drive)
- The engine gets very hot
- Load light on
- Loose or broken alternator and water pump drive belt - tighten or replace
- Load light not on
- Lack of coolant due to external or internal leakage
- Damaged thermostat
- Low oil level
- Stuck brakes
- External or internal contamination of the radiator Radiator fan is not working properly
- Impassable water channels of the engine
- Ignition not set correctly or ignition timing controls not working properly
- Very lean mixture
Attention: Do not add cold water to an overheated engine, as this may cause a crack in the engine casing
Low oil pressure in the engine
- Meter reading is low or warning light is on while engine is running
- Low oil level or wrong oil
- Damaged oil pressure indicator or sensor
- Engine overheating
- Clogged oil filter or damaged drain valve
- Clogged oil pump vessel
- Worn oil pump or loose suction tube
- Worn main bearings or connecting rod bearings
Caution: Low oil pressure in engines after long periods of low speed operation (idle work) should not cause concern. A sharp drop in pressure at high speed is much more serious. In each case, the actual oil pressure must be checked before considering the engine as faulty.
Knocking in the engine
- Engine knocking heard when accelerating - very early ignition
- Unsuitable fuel
- Damaged or worn igniter
- Worn or poorly adjusted carburetor
- A very large layer of soot in the engine
Rattle or crackle
- Incorrect valve clearances
- Worn valve timing mechanism
- Distribution belt worn
- Cracked piston ring (ticking)
thumps
- Worn connecting rod bearings (regular thud that may decrease under load)
- Worn main liners (rattling that can get worse under load)
- Piston knock (noticeable when the engine is cold)
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